For the offended

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Thursday, January 16, 2025

"Soup is too important"

The photo I need is the finished soup, hot and ready and in the bowl, heaped with chicken 
and carrots. But every time that was before me, I forget myself and began spooning it into my maw.


   
     Can you be offended by a grocery list? I can, though immediately realized that the ability to do so is not a good thing. But rather, a bad thing, an occasion for self-improvement. So let's begin, and own the sin.
     Last weekend, my wife was slammed by whatever virus is going around — not COVID, she took the test. But enough to confine her to bed, wiped out. I busied myself making tea and urging toast, unsuccessfully. She came down with whatever it was on Friday, slept all day Saturday.  But by Sunday had recovered enough to start issuing instructions. I had to go to the store to get essentials and "food for the week." She texted me a list. Kleenex, since she was burning through the last box. Skim milk. And then the item that raised my dandor: "Chicken noodle soup (low salt if possible)."
     Chicken noodle soup? Canned chicken noodle soup? What kind of person does she think I am? Is that what we're reduced to? Are we animals?
     The first thing she had done when she took ill was dig her homemade chicken soup out of the freezer. I boiled noodles — that she trusted me with — and saw that she spooned it into herself. But there was only one container and that was soon gone, in the first hours of her illness. Now we were to follow it up, drive the sickness off with ... what? Progresso? Out of a can? A canned soup?
     "I'll make you soup," I announced.
     Suddenly the haze of suffering lifted and she looked at me, clear-eyed and lucid. Her hard expression was like a blurry image snapping into focus. No words were spoken, but it was as if she said: "Soup? You? You'll make me soup? Is that what you're saying? Really? What do you take me for, a fool?"
      That doubled my resolve. Soup. How hard could it be? You pour water in a big pot, right? You put in, ah, the soup ingredients. Chicken must be important here — can't make chicken soup without it, right? I know that. You boil it. The result is soup. 
     Off to Sunset Foods. I got baby carrots and onions and celery — I forgot the parsnip, but those turn out to be dispensable. Back home I dug some of the vast supplies of chicken out of the freezer in the basement.
     Suddenly, she was downstairs, in the kitchen. The virus held at bay. She helped the selection of a pot — you can't just use any pot, apparently. The right pot selected, she vetted the chicken pieces to go into the pot. Not that you can just put them in — which I was about to do. No, you rinse the frozen chicken first to defrost it a bit. Separate the pieces. I almost said, "Won't they separate when you start boiling the water?" But something told me not to question the master. Nobody interrupts a master cello class with, "Mr. Casals, don't you just pull the bow back and forth over the strings?"
     What I said was:
     "I can make soup."
     "No you can't," she shot back. "Soup is too important."
     I peeled the onion; she checked that I had indeed thoroughly removed the outer brown layer and hadn't half-assed it. Into the pot. She handed me a bag of baby carrots and I poured them in. Mistake.
     "Wait a second," she said, as the carrots tumbled into the pot. Were these not the baby carrots already in the fridge? No, the new ones I just bought. I'd left them sitting on the counter. To put into the soup. She scowled — we should have used the old carrots first. I looked into the pot, wondering if I should begin plucking the carrots out, one by one. She read my mind — 34 years of marriage — and said no, they had to remain now, as they had touched the raw chicken.
     "I thought they looked too bright," she muttered, unhappily. I made a mental note to eat the half bag of baby carrots in the fridge, with hummus. They were now somehow my responsibility.
     I was allowed to cut the celery, but as I did, I felt her eyes upon me, as if she was wondering, "Can he do this right?" The pieces passed muster. And I could put the pot under the tap and turn on the water.
     She hadn't instructed me to get fresh garlic, so the shameful strategum of powdered garlic would have to do. Then there was the matter of salt. She grabbed a big blue box of rough Kosher salt and poured some into an open palm, then dumped that into the pot.
     "How much salt?" I asked, trying to keep myself involved in the process. 
     "You saw, right?" she replied. "Not too much. Not too little. Just enough."
     For the record, late in the soup making, she would allow me to taste the soup I was supposedly making, and I would add more salt. My wife couldn't taste anything.
     The soup cooked. There were more steps. The flame was adjusted. I boiled a pot of extra wide Manischewitz egg noodles — they are kept apart from the soup, added before serving, to keep them intact and to cool the soup for eating.
      We ate the soup for supper. It wasn't quite her soup — not as rich. Maybe that missing parsnip. But it wasn't bad either — and we consumed bowl after bowl. Dinner plans for Monday night were scrapped because we realized we still had soup left, and two bowls are a meal. The rest we froze as insurance against future illness.
      Only after did I realize that my making the soup had not been the welcome act of a concerned husband trying to nurse his ill wife back to health, but a species of rudeness, prodding a sick woman to get up and make us soup. I would rush to reassure her that, of course it goes without saying that my soup wasn't 100 percent — it needed dark meat — but what she generously deemed, "perfectly fine soup." Honestly, I don't believe we'll ever speak of it  again. The soup, for want of a better term, that I attempted to make is in the freezer, and this near-soup will be consumed at some point, probably to ward off the cold of February. But soon after that I expect to find the freezer magically jammed with plastic containers of actual, properly-prepared soup, deep yellow broth, so we are never again caught short in a time of sickness and forced to take desperate measures.

23 comments:

  1. The woman's a saint.

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    Replies
    1. Hope she's better now and glad she keeps you on your toes.

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  2. Oh dear! And here Max and Bennys is just a few miles from you! With absolutely delicious chicken noodle soup. You can add a matzah ball. Or rice. Or kasha. Or not. They let you customize. And it certainly may not be as good as your wife’s. But it would be unquestionably perfectly fine and ready to eat hours and hours earlier. Of course you might argue that then you wouldn’t have had this amusing column but then again I think based on my own experiences there that you would have found something about the operation to entertain your readers with.

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    Replies
    1. I had the exact same thought and was going to write as much. Excellent!

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    2. Either you haven't had Max & Benny's soup lately, or haven't had homemade. Not the same.

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  3. I'd have purchased a half gallon equivalent of Panera chicken soup in mass quantity (or soup from a Jewish deli) at Jewel or Mariano's, then heated the broth up in a pan to get the kitchen smelling legit. Then I would've gotten those extra wide Manischewitz egg noodles and started boiling them while I added a few precut and steamed veggies to the pre-bought soup.

    To avoid spouse coming downstairs, offer her an herbal sleep tea while you work your magic.

    Noodles cooked now. Strain them. Also strain the noodles from the Panera soup, but pick out the veggies and throw noodles and broth and everything into a single pot now. Bring to a simmer. Add what you must to achieve the "get well" aromatics permeating the house. Destroy all evidence while this is at a low temp in its final phase.

    Make certain that serving vessel and spoon size are perfect. Don't want to f this part up. She'll need a nice towel or bib while eating so make sure its fancy even if she tells you not to fuss.

    Taste test and serve. Voila.
    NEVER compromise your recipe.

    Order yourself a pizza.

    Nice work.

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  4. We are huge fans of homemade chicken soup in sickness and in health. I deliver it to friends who are under the weather also. Our method is similar to yours but have never added a parsnip - will have to try that. I shake my head at people who try to make soup with boneless, skinless chicken breasts - what a sacrilege.

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  5. Many years ago, Jeff Zaslow did a mailing to readers of his mother's chicken soup recipe. He used to receive a lot of requests. I have it somewhere, on letterhead, if you'd like me to find it and send a picture. Or maybe it's somewhere in the paper's archives?

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  6. I like to make soup, seldom use a recipe. For me, the fun is seeing what’s on hand, maybe something from our crockpot dinner last night, some protein, rice or pasta, etc. Years ago, I made one of these, my spouse was quiet as he ate. “How do you like the soup?” “It’s fine. (Enthusiastically) As good as Campbell’s!” I left the table and was not seen for some time.
    These days, he’s extravagant in his praise for my soups. At 80, the man still has learning ability.

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  7. Food is love. And that's what I just read about.

    In my caregiving life I make a bowl of soup every (goddamn) day, but being only an impostor cook and facing restrictions of dietary requirements, time, and energy, I make quite a few shortcuts. Biggest of those is I get a ready made broth from the store, no salt added (blood pressure issue), beef or chicken. Then I finely chop (chewing is an issue) a piece of whatever protein is on the menu that day - chicken breast, meatball, whatever. Chop a handful of baby spinach (good source of iron), pour in a spoonful of quick oats. Bring to boil in the broth, let simmer 10 minutes. Not nearly as amazing as I imagine yours was, but not bad if I say so myself, at least serviceable in a full daily routine.

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  8. My wife is a rice person, not a noodle nut (though she can make really delicious noodles from scratch when she wants to). And I have endeavored from time to time when she is sick to cook rice for her on the stove (as opposed to using a rice cooker). It's never worked. She will not even taste what I have prepared for her and goes back to her hibernation, a sovereign remedy for all ills that might strike her. Remedies for my own rare miseries usually amount to some bizarre combination of Campbell's soup, frozen mixed vegetables and ramen noodles. I am following the instructions of a physician who countermanded the No-Salt order of a previous doctor prescribing for us high school students by telling me that I was healthy as a horse and could eat whatever I wanted---the worst advice I have ever received in my entire eighty some years on this forsaken globe.

    john

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  9. There is a wonderful shop in the suburbs called Harrison Poultry. I think it used to be called Harrison Farms. No doubt you and many of your readers know of them.

    I have discovered that they sell one of the best pre-made stock you can find. I thnk it's called Nuggets Brew. It's bone broth. It fooled my grandmother. I keep an emergency quart in the freezer... i've found its easier to nurse good chicken soup into existence only when "everyone" is healthy...

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  10. How does hers turn deeply yellow?
    Mine never does. Whole Chucken? Bones?

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    Replies
    1. Chicken stock and/or bone broth as the base instead of simple broth or water?

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  11. My husband's caught something, too (huge coughing fits, enough he gave himself a bloody nose), and I made soup.

    We only have boneless/skinless chicken breast in the freezer, but I made it work by poaching it in a quart of turkey broth (from last Thanksgiving's turkey), with celery and carrots, and just enough water to cover the chicken. While the chicken breast was cooling enough that I could cube it, I boiled noodles in the enriched broth.

    He usually adds to his soups -- hot sauces and pickled mushrooms and pepperoncini, but this time he ate Just Plain Soup.

    It seemed to improve things.

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  12. The highlight of January is the beginning of true "soup season". (the turkey soup and ham and bean soups made from left over holiday meals are just the precursor). I'm sorry E was feeling poorly, hope she's recovered and that you haven't succumbed. Your description of cooking under her watchful eye sounds painfully familiar, right down the carrot critique. Your wife can be forgiven for being cranky because she was ill, though. I retreat from the kitchen when my husband is cooking to maintain the peace. Homemade soup is far more healthy than canned or packaged. Kudos to you for making it. Your next batch will be even better. And if its not, know that all cooks miss the mark on occasion. In our house, soup carries greater importance because the recipe makes far more than 2 can eat in one sitting. But freezer space is important, too.

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  13. Sorry to hear about your wife being ill and I hope she got over it as quickly as possible. Like making soup from leftovers, at least this entertaining story was an unintended consequence.

    With regard to "whatever virus is going around," there's a smorgasbord to choose from. This epidemiologist keeps her readership posted year-round on Substack, and Tuesday's report was titled "We are likely at peak season."

    "What virus is the main culprit behind these symptoms? Common cold and flu, with RSV and Covid-19 following behind."

    https://yourlocalepidemiologist.substack.com/p/we-are-likely-at-peak-season

    If I may ever so gently say, I'm a bit surprised about the baby carrots. (Not using the old ones first -- that goes without saying!) After years of eating both, I'm convinced that the large organic ones you can buy individually or in 5-pound bags are the best-tasting. Obviously, there's a significant difference, convenience-wise, but they're worth it to us.

    Of course, I'd have probably gone with the Max and Benny's soup, if I had been you, so whaddo I know. We've only been there once. 😉

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  14. While some deli and restaurant soups may taste good, most have too much salt & fat to be healthy, especially as age catches us up. Explore and experiment everything you can of alternative spices and flavorings to learn what you now like. And remember, a dash or a tablespoon of fresh lemon juice as a final ingredient brightens many of the ingredients' flavors in chicken soups.

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  15. I wasn't able to eat any soup for almost 2 years due to salt (in liquid form) affecting part of a nerve that is in my mouth. Sweet in liquid form, mint in toothpaste and mouthwash, lemon, salad dressing with vinegar, etc. I could put sugar or salt on things, but couldn't have them in liquid form.

    I was at my sister's for Passover & she made some chicken soup with just thighs, an onion, carrots & celery. No salt at all. Just being able to have chicken soup with matzoh balls was absolutely heavenly. We heated the matzoh balls in the microwave.

    The nerve is under control now and I've since made my husband's outstanding recipe and Manischewitz egg noodles. My husband was raised Catholic, but his soup was just as good as any old fashioned Jewish mother's. The meat from the thighs can be used for Chicken salad.

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  16. You can diss Progresso, but you can't say General Mills, its manufacturer/marketer, doesn't try. They're coming out with a cough drop flavored like Progresso Chicken Soup.

    No, I am not kidding. https://www.generalmills.com/news/press-releases/soup-you-can-suck-on-introducing-progresso-soup-drops-the-ultimate-cold-and-flu-season-comfort

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  17. My wife's family takes pity on those poor old geezers...us...and we take home the turkey carcasses every year, after Thanksgiving. he following day, I do the "turkey work"...stripping the meat off...every teensy little bit.

    We have a couple more Thanksgiving-style, turkey dinners, but then my wife makes the turkey soup that goes into the freezer and lasts for much of the winter. Also end up with turkey pot pies, turkey harsh, turkey meals, turkey stew, and all things turkey.

    Sometimes there are so many turkey products from those carcasses that I'm still eating Thanksgiving turkey the following spring. The turkey soup is to die for. I don't know what my wife puts into it. I just eat it.

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  18. WTF. Adding the chicken with the vegetables. Legs, thighs or backs should be boiled briefly and skimmed of foam. And eventually adding the vegetables. Mirepoix with parsnips if you got ‘em. You used wings which should work pretty great, but aren’t the vegetables too soft at the end?

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