An old newspaper pal of mine and I decided to have lunch. Since he lives in Lemont, which is a haul from Northbrook, and Northbrook is an identical trek for him, I suggested we meet halfway, in Elmhurst.
That made perfect sense. Though I had ulterior motives. The Victor Lezza bakery outlet is in Elmhurst, and well, it's been a while.
So we met, and had a very pleasant lunch at Fitz's Pub. And then I slid over to Lezza's to order, as carefully directed by my wife, a pair of cannoli — pistachio, not chocolate chip. Plus two tubs of Spumoni. Plus a package of lemon ricotta cookies. Plus other cookies, of my own selection, one of which didn't make it home.
Okay, two of which didn't make it home.
When I got home, and went to put the cannoli in the refrigerator, my wife said, "Who are you kidding?" and she polished off hers on the spot. And I joined her with mine, despite the three cookies eaten in the car. One must live, and sometimes, well, diabetes be damned. That's what insulin is for.
After, I looked at my photo, and thought, "cannoli" ... that's an unusual word. It must be connected to ... And here I squinted hard and played my Guess the Derivation Game ... cannon.
On the green in one. From the Latin canna, or "reed," a hollow plant from which we name all sorts of tube-like objects. Not only justly-famous deserts, cannoli, or "little tube," (that's the plural — one is cannolo, though seldom used). Plus the aforementioned "cannon," and "cane," not to forget "canal" and "channel." Quite a lot really.
What keeps etymology from being mere trivia is the meaning we layer over it. For instance, I couldn't help think that it was the same humanity that developed both life-enriching cannoli and life-shattering cannons. I suppose we could take comfort in the realization that, over the wide swoop of history, it is the cannoli and not the cannons that are deployed most often. Cannoli are functional to this day; cannons merely decorative. That's improvement.
I am glad I went to Lezza's and even gladder it is half an hour away in Elmhurst. It would not do to visit too much. A cannoli and, okay, truth be told, four cookies, spiked my blood sugar and blew my diet out of the water as surely as any cannonball would. But a lot more pleasantly.
That made perfect sense. Though I had ulterior motives. The Victor Lezza bakery outlet is in Elmhurst, and well, it's been a while.
So we met, and had a very pleasant lunch at Fitz's Pub. And then I slid over to Lezza's to order, as carefully directed by my wife, a pair of cannoli — pistachio, not chocolate chip. Plus two tubs of Spumoni. Plus a package of lemon ricotta cookies. Plus other cookies, of my own selection, one of which didn't make it home.
Okay, two of which didn't make it home.
When I got home, and went to put the cannoli in the refrigerator, my wife said, "Who are you kidding?" and she polished off hers on the spot. And I joined her with mine, despite the three cookies eaten in the car. One must live, and sometimes, well, diabetes be damned. That's what insulin is for.
After, I looked at my photo, and thought, "cannoli" ... that's an unusual word. It must be connected to ... And here I squinted hard and played my Guess the Derivation Game ... cannon.
On the green in one. From the Latin canna, or "reed," a hollow plant from which we name all sorts of tube-like objects. Not only justly-famous deserts, cannoli, or "little tube," (that's the plural — one is cannolo, though seldom used). Plus the aforementioned "cannon," and "cane," not to forget "canal" and "channel." Quite a lot really.
What keeps etymology from being mere trivia is the meaning we layer over it. For instance, I couldn't help think that it was the same humanity that developed both life-enriching cannoli and life-shattering cannons. I suppose we could take comfort in the realization that, over the wide swoop of history, it is the cannoli and not the cannons that are deployed most often. Cannoli are functional to this day; cannons merely decorative. That's improvement.
I am glad I went to Lezza's and even gladder it is half an hour away in Elmhurst. It would not do to visit too much. A cannoli and, okay, truth be told, four cookies, spiked my blood sugar and blew my diet out of the water as surely as any cannonball would. But a lot more pleasantly.

Who will give me five cookies...? Can I get five cookies...? C'mon people, these cookies arw
ReplyDeleteI think four was bad enough. ; )
DeleteCan I get five cookies...? Who will give me five cookies...? C'mon people, they're deliziso.You only live once. Going once, going twice, sold to the gentleman holding the two canoli!
ReplyDeleteBaruch, it's delizioso.
DeleteThere's a wonderful cannoli source in Mundelein as well, Tony Cannoli. If you ever do a blog on the amazing University of St. Mary of the Lake, particularly gorgeous during the fall color season, you can swing by afterward. Tony Cannoli is two minutes from the Seminary (as it's commonly called).
ReplyDeleteThe store that I'm glad is a slight inconvenience to get to is Bennison's Bakery in downtown Evanston. I've been going there for treats for sixty years.
ReplyDeleteMy doctor's office is right down the block from them, so I made a stop after my physical on Wednesday and picked up a few Apple Cider donuts and a loaf of the best Pumpkin Bread I've ever had.
The Art Deco facade of Bennison's Bakery has stood at the southwest corner of Maple and Davis since 1938. Downtown Evanston, with its gentrification and its many high-rises, has changed completely since I lived down by Main Street in the 70s and 80s, but I'm guessing the enormous apple turnovers are still for sale at Bennison's.
DeleteThey always made me feel better after yet another fruitless (no pun intended) session at what was then called the Illinois State Employment Service, which was just south of the bakery. Far too many hours were spent there in my 20s and 30s, the memories of which I have done my best to repress.
Don't recall ever finding anything appropriate via their microfiche listings, or getting even one referral. It was always an exercise in futility. Never knew anyone else who found an employment connection there, either. A stop at Bennison's eased the pain.
Apparently, most Evanstonians are doing extremely well. That's almost a given now. The state office on Maple is long gone. Replaced by...what else?...a high-rise apartment building. The gentry who reside there, and whom fortune has smiled upon, have Bennison's just around the corner...quite literally.
The word "benison" is an archaic and little-used synonym, mostly found in religious texts and poetry, for "blessing" or "benediction" or "grace." Bingo.
BTW, they now have a jalapeño cheddar croissant that is absolutely evil. I only allow myself one once every four or five weeks
Deletepgw 705
Yikes! No way in hell could I handle anything jalapeño. Lifelong spice wuss.
DeleteNext time you choose to take a run at your pancreas, head east on St..Charles to Mannheim and see the bakery with it's wonderful 50's era sign: "Victor Lezza and Sons Spumoni". Or maybe it's just me that's a sucker for old signage.
ReplyDeleteBeen there — it's the same stuff. https://www.everygoddamnday.com/search?q=spumoni
DeleteAh, brings me back to the day I polished off almost a pound of delectable chocolates on a ride home from Milwaukee to Northbrook, where I lived at the time. Googly-eyed memories. Thanks for the chuckle (are you sure it wasn’t actually five cookies?)
ReplyDeleteThere's a fairly new Italian restaurant in your old stomping grounds, Madison just West of Des Plaines, the name of which I love to repeat: "Piacere Mio." I haven't tried it out yet (It's only been there a couple years}, but no need for cookies in my diet--the warm crusty bread that spoils every Italian restaurant meal I've ever had are quite enough, thank you.
ReplyDeletetate
Thanks for your musings on cannoli, Neil, much needed on a quiet, summer-like, Saturday morning as a most pleasant distraction from ALL current events. As a person of Italian heritage, its wonderful to read that both your wife and you enjoy Italian sweets so, especially cannoli.
ReplyDeleteIf I may take the liberty to do so, I would like to recommend to you and other readers one of my favorite Italian pastry (i.e. no spumoni, gelato, etic.) shops on the North Side, Il Giardino Del Dolce.
Family-run business, located on the corner of Harlem and George Streets (just north of Harlem and Diversey), at the edge of the Montclare neighborhood, across the street from Elmwood Park. Both neighborhoods once dominated by a heavy Italian presence, and still very much so. Cannoli, sflogliatella, lemon taralli, Napoleons, pasticciotto, biscotti, cookies, and more. Cakes and slices as well. Just up Harlem from Angelo Caputo's Fresh Markets, at Harlem and Fullerton, should anyone require an Italian-centric food store while in the vicinity.
And, to clarify, I'm not affiliated with either in any way, other than being a very satisfied customer and consumer of fine Italian pastries and other delicacies! Certainly these aren't in harmony with my A1C medication (Januvia for me), but la vita e breve, quindi goditi ogni momento! (translation: Life is short, so enjoy every moment!)
Buon appetito!
Don't be fooled by the vintage neon Victor Lezza & Sons sign on St. Charles in Bellwood - they do no retail business there these days! You'll have to keep driving to the Elmhurst location to get your fix. Or go few miles east to the Caputo's in Elmwood Park - I've found the spumoni there.
ReplyDeleteYou have to cheat sometimes and cannoli is the way to do it. Lezza's makes some Ital. ice too, sold at Jewel. Elm. is a hike from NB. Mariano's has some good ones, just don't go too often. Yes, it must be the pistachio ones.
ReplyDeleteAh, yes, Caputo's, superb and try their Ital. sausage too to be made at home. None better.
ReplyDeleteI have to have a cannoli now, or 2. I'll just pop some metformin. Type 2 isn't as bad as type one, or just being borderline.
ReplyDeleteNB is much farther than 30 min. to EH.
ReplyDeleteEverything these days is 10 min. from here or whatever. I like to count the miles.
ReplyDeleteLooks like it was well worth the trip Neil! Thanks for sharing about this gem. Caren :)
ReplyDeleteSomeone is late with the Sun. blog ;).
ReplyDeleteThe paper didn't post today's column until 5:30 a.m.
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