Tuesday, January 23, 2024

Restaurant Life #2 — Give the man what he wants

Beef and broccoli at Star of Siam. 


     Years ago, there was a restaurant at 1 East Wacker Drive called "The Little Corporal" that had a Napoleon theme. Which was reason enough for me to frequent it. All sorts of prints and etchings of the once-loathed tyrant, on horseback, posing regally, leading his soldiers.
      But they also had a good chicken salad — not chopped chicken with mayo, but a salad with strips of grilled chicken atop it. All things being equal, that's what I want for lunch, then and now, whether out or at home. The protein of the chicken, the bulk of the lettuce, the flavor of the the dressing. The whole gestalt. What's not to love?
     When The Little Corporal
 was a replaced by a steakhouse, I had to go elsewhere — this was back when the paper was at 401 N. Wabash — and for a time I'd go to the Hard Rock Cafe. There was always a line of tourists out the door, but if you were going to the bar, you could bypass the line. So I'd go to the bar, order a salad with chicken on it, and have my lunch.
     One week I did that every day. Monday and Tuesday and Wednesday and Thursday. On Friday I was surprised, when it came time to leave, to be informed that the meal was on the house — it isn't easy to prepare food for a clientele that consists of tourists from Iowa here to gawp at Ace Frehley's guitar. It turned out, they were flattered by the idea that some rumpled guy in a coat and tie came by regularly, ate their chow, and left, without even glancing at the case with, oh, a pair of Elton John's eyeglasses in it. 
     Which is a long way of saying that I am a creature of habit, when it comes to restaurants. I tend to go to the same place and order the same thing. The upside being I get what I want. And the downside being I'm cut off from the rich variety that one goes to restaurants to appreciate in the first place. We make our choices in life, and one rule I have is: be who you are.
     The prime example of this dynamic is beef and broccoli. I really like beef and broccoli. Why? Because I like beef. And I like broccoli. Taken together, they are the asian cuisine version of a salad with chicken on it. Yes, not quite as healthful, when you consider the sauce and the fat to cook the meat. But then, a salad loses its dietetic quality once you consider the dressing and the dried cranberries and such. 
     I order it at Thai, Chinese and Vietnamese places, counting on sampling whatever my wife orders to inject a note of variety. The bountiful plate shown above was devoured earlier this year at one of my favorite spots, the Star of Siam, 11 E. Illinois. My wife ordered something that disappointed her — which I regretted, as it dampens your mood when you're loving what you've got and your tablemate is sighing and picking dubiously at what's in front of her — not wrong enough to send back, but a disappointment in some ineffable fashion that takes a long time to explain. Another reason to always get what you want. Almost always. Sometimes I do change it up. It's never quite as good, but it does serve to remind myself of the joy of ordering exactly what you like.

23 comments:

  1. The Little Corporal! That brings back memories of lunch when I worked in the Loop. Yes, I'm old

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  2. Over the years my spouse and I would get on a jag one year. It would be falafel one year it would be pad Thai, the next chile rellenos .
    Whenever we went out would get the same food from a different restaurant and try to figure out which one we like the best. Then we might have to go back to a couple places just to be sure. Even when we would travel we would go and find whatever food we were currently tasting everywhere.
    Then came coevid
    And long coevid
    I'd nearly forgotten about this
    I'm the type that could eat the same food everyday and often do
    Been on rice chex for breakfast for 30 years.

    Maybe this year will do. Pupusas

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  3. The cheese toast at Little Corporal was great. I'm not a nutritionist but I think beef and broccoli is probably healthy. If it is cooked with vegetable oil, that's a healthy fat. Same for salad dressing.
    I sometimes wonder at the amount of time and effort we put into our food. It's way beyond what's necessary; but it's a definite pleasure.

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  4. I loved the Little Corporal. Glad to know someone else remembers it and that fantastic chicken salad! I guess that makes me older than dirt.

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  5. My go-to is fettuccine Alfredo with broccoli and grilled chicken. I'm told it isn't even Italian but I don't really like red sauce so I don't care. Sometimes I'll get shrimp instead of chicken. Creature of habit for sure.

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    1. Kaye Grabbe- My Dad (who was Italian) said of fettuccine Alfredo-'That's what we had when we couldn't afford meat'. He never understand when anyone liked it.

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  6. My introduction to Thai food began at Star of Siam in the late 70's when I worked at 444 N Michigan Ave. I find making a selection challenging (and fun) as there are delicious, healthy options galore. As supremely curious and investigative as you are, no thank you to that. Our choices in life are ours alone.

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  7. Beef and broccoli is my number 2 Asian food order...orange chicken is #1(I know...not real healthy) though lately sushi has been creeping in. In moderation, order what you like...life is short!

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  8. In 1967, working for ABC in the Mailroom, one of the big local Producers would send me out to The Little Corporal for Peanut Butter and Bacon sandwiches. Fritzels was a popular spot then, but may have folded by the time you found The Corporal.

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    1. Was Fritzels known for their broasted chicken?

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  9. Second time you made me smile ! My favorite word is "ineffable." And I've read it twice from you. Yes!

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  10. I too loved the Little Corporal. A downtown cocktail lounge where I could bring my underage dates for an adult beverage, after seeing a movie on Saturdays, before heading over to the Planetarium to “park”. All….a very long time ago.

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  11. Joseph Campbell and his wife apparently had a similar restaurant routine. Joseph noted that his wife was sometimes demonstrably delighted and other times deeply disappointed by her adventurous food choice, whereas Joseph was always simply satisfied.

    john

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  12. Star of Siam used to be one of our preferred Thai places. And beef and broccoli was a favorite of mine as well. Lately, we're not around there very much and I don't eat beef very often. My go-to storefront-Asian-place order these days is Cashew Chicken.

    I remember walking by "The Little Corporal" occasionally, but never ventured in. For a while, I thought that statue of Washington near there was Napoleon...

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  13. The Seven Flavor Beef at the long-gone Ben Pao on Illinois and Dearborn was the absolute best to me. I'm still mourning its loss.

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  14. By the way, if one needed a reminder that you're not in Kansas (er... Arizona) anymore, today's remarkably dreary weather oughtta do it. ; )

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    1. Gotta be less dreary than Cleveland, which is notorious for its long gray line of sunless days, especially in the winter. Eight days with sunlight in the last five weeks, and most of them were during the recent cold spell. If Patrick Henry had lived here, he'd have said: "Give me sunshine or give me death!"

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    2. The last I saw, we'd had 19% of possible sunshine in the first 3 weeks of the year, put in perspective by the record low amount being 20% for the whole month of January.

      So, you may be right, Grizz, but we're giving Believeland a run for its money. Regardless, it's a pretty dismal kinda contest. : )

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    3. Our winters are about as snowy as Denver and as gray as Seattle. Took me about 20 years to stop cursing the darkness and to learn to live with it. But our lovely summers are the trade-off. Less humid than Chicago's are, and not as hot. And we get more summer sunshine than coastal cities like Tampa, New Orleans, and San Diego.

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  15. One correction: the Kiss guitarist is Ace Frehley, not Freeley.

    I'm a fan of Beef & Broccoli, to the point where I can't believe how picky I get over what should be such a simple and self-defined meal. Without pointing out any one restaurant in particular, I've had examples where the broccoli was practically raw, or the beef was leathery, or the proportions of protein to veggie were way off in either direction.

    My overall take on the culinary misfires was that the cooking staff doesn't always take the dish seriously: just slam some beef together with some broccoli, and get it out the door so that we can take some more time over the more-complex recipes. Good Beef & Broccoli demonstrates attention to detail, and not just cooking in a hurry.

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  16. Too much talk about health here! I mean, I do t go out of my way to shovel junk down my gullett, and generally eat "healthy", but I also don't sweat it. I'm a foodie who eats to be sated, in addition to all the other good reasons out there.

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  17. In 1978-1980, I used to have a Bismarck and coffee for breakfast at the Little Colonel every morning and then cross the bridge to the IBM Plaza. Nowadays, I miss that Bismarck and all Bismarcks. I’m 70 now and can’t eat like that; basically I get a fat tuchas from Bismarcks. Nowadays, it’s Loving Heart vegan restaurant. I guarantee you that you will not miss the meat!

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