Thinking about memorials

        Just as predictions of the future are far more accurate reflections of the time in which they are made — the hopes and fears of the moment — than they are any kind of augury of what is to come, so monuments embody the era of their creation in a way that rivals the events they are supposed to commemorate.
     This came home to me when I noticed that the cornerstone for the Jefferson Memorial was set by Franklin Roosevelt in 1939. Suddenly all the warnings about tyranny flashed in stark relief; this marble temple isn't about protecting the rights of 18th century Virginia planters, but about steeling our noodle national spine against Hitler.
      That is most clearly seen in the Franklin D. Roosevelt Memorial, a vast garden of large stones and waterfalls. I remember the controversy when it was built — disability rights advocates complained that FDR's wheelchair was largely obscured by his Navy cape, while his partisans countered that he would not want to be portrayed that way, defined by a disability he struggled to hide. 

       I wrote a column, which I'll have to dig up, pointing out that the wheelchair wasn't exactly a state secret — H.L. Mencken wrote in 1932 that the man was too much of a cripple to be president. And FDR himself mentioned his condition, in a speech before Congress no less, when he apologized for not standing because of the steel braces on his legs.

    (Our gossip columnist, Irv Kupcinet weighed in, that when he was a boy, he didn't know FDR had polio and I, with the cruelty of youth, observed that when Kup was young, FDR didn't have polio, having contracted it in 1921, when Kup was 9). 
     You can also see his hands arranged where his omnipresent cigarette should have been — I was tempted to buy a pack and tuck one in, and certainly wouldn't be the first.

Vietnam Memorial's trio of soldiers.

     The memorial was dedicated in 1997, with an additional statue of FDR, clearly in his wheelchair, added as a sop to activists in 2001, the way a statue trio of soldiers was tacked onto Maya Lin's Vietnam Memorial for those who couldn't bear to have the disaster commemorated with a pure marble scar in the earth. 

     I was prompted to check when the Americans with Disabilities Act was passed — 1990 — as the FDR Memorial is a tribute to accommodating people with disabilities as much as it recounts his three and a twelfth terms in office. No stairs, little bronze models of the statues for blind people to feel, plus bas relief pillars and walls, with the story in icon form. And Braille. And recorded messages. 
     This isn't a complaint, mind you. I'm a big tent kind of guy — curb cuts benefit us all — and  have many friends and neighbors who struggle with various physical challenges. As will I someday. And you, and everybody else, sooner or later. I think it's cool that Northbrook's Prairie Grass Cafe has periodic low "sensory-friendly" dining hours so people on the autistic spectrum can enjoy a restaurant meal without over-stimulation. That's both kindness and good business.

World War II Memorial

    Of course once you start assessing monuments as creations of their time, the tendency is to keep going. At first it's easy to dismiss the widely scorned World War II Memorial — the Washington Post called it a "hodgepodge of cliche and Soviet-style pomposity" with "the emotional impact of a slab of granite" though I settled on "horrendous" — as a product of our cretinous president, George W. Bush, since it was unveiled in 2004. 

     But that's unfair, since it was years in the planning, and Bill Clinton was president while the mortuary plaza of wreaths, headstones, stars, and an aviary worth of eagles was being designed. I can only suggest that Clinton had better things to do than micromanage monuments. Though he did break a string of eight consecutive presidents who wore a uniform in World War II (nudging LBJ into the fold since he suited up as a congressman riding along on a bombing mission). So maybe the president famous for caring didn't care too much when it came to this.

Martin Luther King Memorial

      I'd mentioned my monument theory to my wife, and at the Martin Luther King Memorial, she asked what it said about its time of creation — the first decade of the 21 century. The best I could come up with, on the spot, was that by the 2000s it was all too clear that civil rights had been only a partial achievement, a work in progress, and you can see that in the way King emerges halfway from his stone of hope, itself freshly quarried from the "mountain of despair" directly behind him. We aren't finished.
     The Lincoln Memorial was unveiled in 1922, a few years before the Klan was boldly marching up Pennsylvania Avenue (the centennial is next month for those who want to bake a cake). It certainly doesn't reflect Lincoln's era in the way a more contemporary monument does — if you've ever gone inside the Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument at Public Square in downtown Cleveland, dedicated in 1894, it feels as if you've stepped into the 1860s. 
      The Marine warfighting manual refers to the "fog of battle," and lately I've recast that phrase into "the fog of the present." It's very hard to see outside our current moment, especially forward into the future, but even back into the past. We're too biased by how we are now. Monuments help us look backward, to a limited degree. Although I have to use this opportunity to put a plug in for the FDR Memorial, if only for one of the better sculptures of a dog on public display.
    "These Republic leaders have not been content with attacks on me or my wife or my sons," I announced, in my best imitation of Roosevelt's plumy, patrician voice, "they now include my little dog Fala." He'd been accused of sending a Navy destroyer to retrieve his beloved Scottish terrier. 
     My wife smiled, indulgently, and said nothing.

DEI at DC memorials ripe for purging

The statue of Thomas Jefferson in his Washington memorial. Built during World War II, the memorial highlights diversity, equality and the need to always oppose tyranny

     WASHINGTON — The statue in the Jefferson Memorial is 19 feet tall, but it's the words carved in stone around the bronze figure that are truly monumental.
      Such as these, from Jefferson's Declaration of Independence:
      "WE HOLD THESE TRUTHS TO BE SELF-EVIDENT, THAT ALL MEN ARE CREATED EQUAL."
     "Again with the equality," I thought, forcing back a smile. And the diversity — "all men"? Really?
      Can't have that. Not in 2025 America, where the same government that went to the expense and bother of erecting this palace to DEI is now scrubbing references to unfavored groups from official websites and giving certain people the bum's rush — out of the military, out of the country.
     How long will this offense be tolerated now that intolerance is the latest dance craze? Envision a trio of Three Stooges administration lackeys. The same crew who flagged for removal from Department of Defense pages images of the the Enola Gay  — the plane that dropped the atomic bomb on Hiroshima — because, ewww, "gay."
      Imagine them showing up at the Jefferson Memorial in a blare of calliope music, a jumble of ladders and drop cloths and eye pokes, splattering plaster as they efface that forbidden "EQUAL" and slap on a more acceptable sentiment along the lines of "ALL MEN ARE CREATED ... MANLY."
     "Nyuk nyuk nyuk, Moe, we soitenly are!"
      Their next stop would have to be the Lincoln Memorial, where the Gettysburg Address covers one wall and goes straight into the DEI weeds: "FOUR SCORE AND SEVEN YEARS AGO" (let's revert to lower case. These memorial caps look fine in marble but scream in print) "our fathers brought forth on this continent a new nation, conceived in liberty and dedicated to the proposition that all men are created equal."
      "Alllllll men"? Yikes! Even immigrants who came here seeking refuge? Can't they be unceremoniously bundled in a van by masked police and shipped to East Africa?
      Or men who identify as women? Of course they can be cashiered from the armed forces because ... well ... I'm not sure what the excuse is. They make our leader uncomfortable, perhaps.
      Meanwhile, my friends on the left will drill down on "men," pointing out that women weren't included in all this hoo-ha about freedom. Flash: There was no electricity, either.
      Are these really our choices? History as George Washington chopping down the cherry tree. "Father, I cannot tell a lie, I did it with my little hatchet." Or history as Thomas Jefferson, rapist and enslaver, who also did some other stuff?
      Does it have to be celebration or revulsion? Can't we have the full spectrum? Glory and shame?
      When I wasn't minding (though not jiggling or kissing) my new granddaughter in her new home, I strolled over to memorials. Not just the Jefferson and the Lincoln, but Martin Luther King Jr., who of course was caught speaking publicly about "dignity, equality and freedom." (I imagine the MAGA stooges will plaster that over with transcripts from J. Edgar Hoover's surveillance tapes.)
      The underappreciated and thoughtful Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial — contrast it with the explosion of wreaths, stars and eagles that is the insipid World War II Memorial — seems practically ripped from the headlines.

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Uber is for the weak

Young people aboard the LaGuardia Link.

  

      "We're the oldest people on this bus by 30 years," I said, then gave a second look around and revised. "Maybe by 40 years."

     It was true. Everyone else on the LaGuardia Link Q70 seemed in their mid-20s. A time when money tends to be tight.
     Money isn't tight for me; at least we can afford ride shares and taxis. But I can also do math. And spending $111 on an Uber from LaGuardia to Jersey City, a trip that would take about an hour with traffic, didn't make sense. Not when you can make the same trip for $7.75 — the free shuttle from the airport to 75th Street, the $2.50 subway down to the World Trade Center, and then five bucks or so — I didn't even take notice if the exact price — for the PATH train under the Hudson to Exchange Place.
      Sure, it took closer to two hours, with the pause at the Oculus Starbucks so my wife could grab a revivifying cappuccino. But we weren't in a rush.
      I've enjoy taking public transportation. Great way to become familiar with a place. I spent weeks in cities from Tokyo to Paris and never gotten in a cab or, more recently, called an Uber. (Not that I'm condemning the practice; I take Uber too, when necessary. The headline is a glib brag, not a blanket condemnation you need to get agitated about). 

      Sometimes public transportation is a challenge —  last year I was offended that there was no direct public transportation route from Boston to Boxborough, so cobbled a complex public transit odyssey together. It was almost an adventure. Even when publications are paying. I don't have many rules when traveling, but I seldom take a cab when a bus works, or a plane when there's a train going the same place. 

     I remember going to cover the 2016 Republican National Convention in Cleveland. I checked into my motel — nothing fancy here at the old Sun-Times — and then got in the queue for the bus, smiling quietly to myself, thinking about a colleague who ran up nearly a grand in taxi bills, supposedly, in London and almost lost his job over it. 

     "You'll just have to find another reason to fire me," I thought, paying my fare. Plus there was a captive audience of talkative Clevelanders waiting for me there.

    When there is no public transportation, there is always walking. We had a magnificent lunch at the Old Ebbitt Grill in Washington. When we finished, we considered calling an Uber. It was hot, and a half hour walk back to where we were staying. We walked.

Nothing distracts like a new baby

     My wife asked if I wanted to cover the mirrors. A Jewish tradition in a house of mourning. At first I said no. Many pressing practical concerns had been raised by my mother suddenly dying that morning, but her soul becoming trapped in a mirror wasn't among them.
      Then I immediately changed my mind and agreed. Rituals comfort. The tradition had been retrofitted for modern times, in that nimble, adaptive way religion employs, scrambling to stay both timeless and relevant. Now covering mirrors is supposed to discourage vanity among the bereaved. I'm all for that. We could all use less vanity. Imagine where our once-proud nation would today be if fewer people were consumed by unchecked self-regard.
      "Suddenly" is the wrong word. My mother had actually been steadily dying for years — ailment upon indignity upon deterioration. Every time I'd visit, I'd make sure to kiss her goodbye and tell her I love her because I really wasn't sure if I'd see her again. The last time, a week earlier, I'd gone to show her a photo of her newborn great-granddaughter.
      My mother, increasingly indifferent for the past few months, perked up, and even phoned her sisters, whom she'd uncharacteristically ignored, to share the happy news. We agreed that this was the most beautiful and perfect baby in the history of babies, and as soon as the tot could travel — probably at Thanksgiving — she would be personally presented for approval. Though I had my doubts of that ever happening, and stood in the doorway a long moment, just gazing at my mother, until I realized she was glaring back at me with a "what-are-you-looking-at-bub?" expression, and turned away.
      The next time I saw her she was dead, in bay 48 of the emergency room at Elmhurst Hospital. Not a moment I'd prepared for. I don't believe I actually turned to my wife and implored, "Do something!" But I certainly thought it. My mother sang as a young girl — on the radio, on television — and sang to us all our lives. Last month was the first time she didn't call on my birthday and sing "Happy Birthday to You," In those last few moments together, I sang a couple brief lullabies she'd sung to us: "Rock-a-Bye" and "My Bonnie," an odd Scottish dirge she's somehow turned into a bedtime song, speaking of retrofitting. But apt in its sense of loss and longing. "Bring back, bring back, bring back my Bonnie to me, to me."
      We went directly from the hospital to Golden Haven in Addison, where our parents lived. I told my father that his wife of 69 years had died. "How old was she?" he replied. I said 88, He nodded and observed that 88 is a good age, then let the matter drop. If he brings up the subject again, I plan to say that she went to the hospital, which is true, and leave off the rest. Who wants to re-discover, even vaguely, that his wife has died, over and over, every day, if not every hour?
      Jews get our own into the ground fast. My mother died on a Saturday, and was buried the following Wednesday. I'm not sure how we picked Shalom Memorial Park — that was my brother — but I admired how smoothly the whole process was handled. My mother had a keen eye for the mistakes of others, a trait I've inherited in full. But the only wrong aspect to the process in my view was there are no headstones jutting out of the ground — the Arlington Heights cemetery is a memorial garden, all bronze plaques, flush with the grass. When we drove through the place, I was uncomfortable with that absence, and considered insisting we find somewhere else, where she could have a granite tombstone.. But I decided to go with the flow, speaking of suppressing vanity, and not insist upon my own preference. Maybe covering those mirrors had an effect after all.

     The paper told me to take as much time off as I liked, and most of a week was consumed with planning the funeral and then holding it, removing her effects out of her apartment and donating them to charity.
     But in one of those examples of lucky timing that would look trite in fiction but life doesn't blush to serve up, 48 hours after we buried my mother, my wife and I flew to New York City to meet my new granddaughter, and help her parents pack up their apartment and move to a different city. Because merely having a baby isn't difficult enough.

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Can you pick the near Vermeer?

 

So is this the close-but-no-cigar Vermeer?

    Odd. I'm a certified art museum buff. We're members of the great Art Institute of Chicago and visit regularly, seldom missing a new exhibit. I love nudging Chicagoans toward Pilsen's National Museum of Mexican Art — few seem to go otherwise. I've even been to the quirky little Intuit Art Museum , with its tableau of the apartment of the deeply strange outsider artist Henry Darger. Though not since they expanded into Howard Tullman's old apartment. Going back to check out the new arrangement is high on my agenda.

     When visiting just about any city, hitting the local art museum is always a top priority, though after touring the museums in most smaller cities my main takeaway is near pity. The Art Institute they're not. 

     Still, most museums have at least one work worth seeing — Dallas's Amon Carter Museum of American Art, for instance, has Grant Wood's ever-more-significant "Parson Weems Fable." 

     Sometimes I fall down on the job. It hurt me to be in New York City recently and not hurry to the Met to see the John Singer Sargent show. But time was limited, and duty called.
    Generally, I collect museums the way other guys collect major league ballparks. The Prado. The Louvre. The Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, plus the Van Gogh Museum. The British Museum. The Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, where I'm proud to have gone to the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum before its famous 1990 art heist. 
     But the National Gallery of Art in Washington just wasn't on my radar. Maybe, given a spare few hours in the nation's capital, I always rush to the National Portrait Gallery, with its hall of presidents, or the American History Museum. Even the little round Hirshhorn. 

Or maybe this one? 

     

     On the 4th of July, I was headed to the Air & Space Museum— haven't seen that for years — but it was all sold out (tickets are free, but you need one). So we wandered over to the National Gallery, which turns out to have an enormous, deep collection — the only Leonardo da Vinci in the Western hemisphere (her room packed with tourists taking selfies of themselves, in some daft after echo of the mobs around the Mona Lisa). 
     An astounding trove of French impressionists, including Monet after Monet. My wife confessed to not being a fan of his near homophone, Manet, but by the time we were done she was won over by works such as "The Dead Toreador." 
     Rare paintings and studies by Georges Seurat, who created the Art Institute's masterpiece "A Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte" (rare because he died at 31) 

Or this one?

     The museum has an excellent Dutch collection, with a number of fine Rembrandts. It also has three of the world's 34 known paintings by Johannes Vermeer. As a fan of his quiet scenes of Dutch domestic life, I headed over to see them. 

     The National Gallery used to have four Vermeers. But in 2022 the museum took advantage of being closed due to COVID to put its Vermeers under sophisticated scanners, and decided one of them wasn't done by the master himself — the brushstrokes are wrong, apparently — but by someone in his studio.
     Knowing this, it seemed clearly inferior. But that opinion might have been skewed by knowing it wasn't from the master's hand. Which inspires me to quiz EGD readers. Take a look at these four paintings. Can you tell which three are real, supposedly, and which four is not quite up to Vermeer standards? The New York Times spills the beans here.

     I'm only touching upon the glories of the National Gallery of Art. In three hours we saw maybe half of it.

    I've been to the Rodin museums in Paris and Philadelphia, but was still impressed by their collection of his busts and sculptures (this time I managed to resist pointing out. yet again, that German poet Rainer Maria Rilke was Rodin's secretary. Typically my resolve fails me — as it did when I found myself mentioning, for the umpteeth time, that Rodin's Thinker is supposed to be an incredibly buff Dante, conjuring up his Inferno). 

    If you go before Nov. 2, check out the ground floor exhibit "Little Beasts: Art, Wonder and the Natural World," a fascinating deep dive into 16th and 17th century depictions of insects and other small creatures. 

    Oh, and in addition to being a museum fan, I'm also a foodie, and lunch at the National Gallery was first rate — a chicken and orange salad for me for $18, a curry chicken salad for my wife. It's tiring work slogging through gallery after gallery, and nothing braces you for the effort than a plate of high grade chow. 

High-level training

 

     My attention was drawn to three jets of water shooting out high atop a building being constructed on Hudson Street in Jersey City. At first I thought the water had to be due to some kind of construction mishap. A burst pipe maybe. That might account for one jet. But three? 

     "They must be testing the standpipes," I said to my wife, referring to the vertical water pipes installed in all buildings taller than four stories, designed to be used by firefighters. 

     But I'm not a big fan of guesswork, not when an explanation can be found. We strolled in that direction, figuring enlightenment might be found there, and it was, in the form of a firefighter looking up at jetting water.
     I addressed my question to him, and he said that firefighters do not often get the chance to train 50 floors up in a high rise. They were being permitted to use the raw space to practice their hose work. That made sense. Firefighters sometimes make use of high rises that are about to be torn down, or have special training towers to simulate the layout of skyscrapers. Such simulations are important -- high rise fires are particularly dangerous, with the usual hazards of fighting a fire magnified by  additional mechanical and electrical systems, not to forget the difficulty of hauling gear up a few dozen flights of stairs. 
      We moved on down the street -- the water was shooting out so high up, maybe 500 feet above the pavement -- that by the time it reached street level, it was no more than a fine mist, quite pleasant on such a hot day. 

He's baaaaaaaack!

                            

    John James Audubon's Washington Sea Eagle is a magnificent bird. But there is a problem with it.
    It might not be real.
    While America's master of depicting birds is not known for just making them up, the fact is that this glorious specimen has never been found in nature. So either it went extinct after Audubon captured its golden glory, or he just got the bird wrong -- it isn't as if he could take reference photographs. 
     Making the Washington Sea Eagle the bird of the moment. As a stand in for our beleaguered nation. Glorious yes. But is it real? Or just a pretty picture? Did our land of freedom and liberty ever really exist? Or is it just a flattering story we've convinced ourselves is true?

     Glory seems in short supply, as congressmen cave and the thin veneer of values that many at least gave lip service to is utterly abandoned. Economic responsibility? Gone. Concern for the struggling? Gone. Half the nation watches in horror through latticed fingers as Donald Trump codifies and strengthens his hold on power and entrenches his administration policy of cruelty and abuse. While the other half either cheers or yawns,  cycling through Instagram, bored with it all.
     I'm ... what? Tired. Distracted. A little bored, to be honest, because the story lately never changes. The bad guys win. Still keeping track, sort of, despite a personal life that has suddenly become very, very busy. 
     Honestly, I've enjoyed the break. I could get used to this. In fact, I have a fine obituary ready to go for Old Obit Week #5.
     But ... well ... am I the only one who thinks Old Obit Week is feeling a little ... old? Stale. I like to give you your money's worth (which is a joke, ha ha, because you don't pay anything. Get it?)

     While I'm still officially on vacation, from the paper, helping my son relocate his new family, extending my week off to bury my mother to a second week off to welcome my granddaughter — talk about a shift in tone — an email from a reader served as a firebell in the night, a call to duty, such as it is.
     "Hi Neil," JS begins.

      "I am of German heritage. I have friends that are German immigrants. I have always struggled with how the German citizens of the 1930-40 era could capitulate to the horror of the Holocaust. Today, after the passing of the big bad bill, I understand how good people will look away. It's very sad and i need you to write about it. Help me make this ok or help me make it better.Please write something to help me. Help all of your readers.Thx. Your readers love you."

     And I love you guys, too. Truly. I'd feel stupid writing this for nobody. 

     My first thought was that I could never make this okay and wouldn't want to try. How could it be okay? This confederation of cowards kneecapping the poor while lavishing resources on our aborning police states. This is the exact opposite of okay. It's horrible. My general optimism sags under the weight of events. With far worse certain to come.
     One thing that made taking time off easier is there is nothing useful to say that I haven't been saying for years. This is a process, turning our flawed republic into a totalitarian state and then, maybe, turning away from that doom. We punched the ticket, we need to take the trip, to go through it, unfortunately. This is the part where we endure. It isn't pleasant. Bad things are supposed to feel bad. If you think this is terrible, wait. It gets worse.

     There is good news: this epoch will end someday. But until it does, all that decent Americans can do is pay attention and manifest ourselves in whatever small ways we can. I can't pretend this blog post or my Sun-Times column have any influence whatsoever. But they can buck up readers like JS, and that is not without value.
     I wrote her back, saying, essentially, now is a time for courage and forbearance, which are free, and no one can deny you. I am a fan of an organization that puts much stock in the concept of hitting rock bottom — that you have to reach some unacceptable nadir before improvement is possible. For a while, I hoped the insurrection of Jan. 6,2021, had to be that bottom. But I was wrong. Obviously we have further to slide. The future of America includes concentration camps.
Shit, the present of America includes concentration camps.
     If being in a state of constant anxiety would shorten the Trump's era by 15 minutes, I would do that. But the entire collection of voices thundering against him have done exactly diddly squat. He's stronger than ever. Yet I remain strangely optimistic. Maybe it's some kind of psychotic disconnect and denial. Maybe I'm relieved I'm not in a camp, yet. But I do retain a bedrock faith in this country that cannot be shaken . The good guys win, eventually. This country defeated King George III, the Confederacy, Imperial Japan, the Nazis and the Soviet Union. The liar, bully, fraud and traitor cannot prevail forever. We will defeat this monster. Just not anytime soon.