Tuesday, July 9, 2024

The hatless man, in a hat




     Look at the above photograph. John F. Kennedy at his inauguration on Jan. 20, 1961. Study it carefully. There will be a quiz. Right now.
     Question: What do you see? The familiar handsome face of JFK, correct? His beautiful wife, Jacqueline, to his left. And anything else? Look closely. I'll give you a hint. It is cylindrical and black and sitting on his head.
     It's a hat. You see that, right? A silk top hat. Kennedy was the last American president who wore a silk top hat to his inauguration. Why is that so hard to grasp? Actually, I know why. I wrote a book on the death of the men's hat industry, "Hatless Jack," using Kennedy's inauguration day as a narrative arc. Some people who know me well remember that, and will sometimes share hat stories that come their way.
     "Read this this morning," wrote Michael Cooke, my friend and editor at both the Sun-Times and the New York Daily News. "Thought you'd have an interest."
     He shared excerpts from "Suffering with Style: A brief history of the Borsalino—from Al Capone to Indiana Jones, Bogart to Gatsby" posted on Graydon Carter's Air Mail blog June 29 by Vanity Fair contributing editor Sam Kashner.
     The article included this passage:
     Fashions changed—dramatically—in January of 1961, when John F. Kennedy was inaugurated president of the United States without wearing a hat. Soon, hippies were growing their hair, letting their freak flags fly.     
     That's the type of mistake that spurred me to write the book in the first place. I pointed out to Michael that, as displayed in the photo above, Kennedy certainly did wear a hat to his inauguration. And men's hats didn't die in January, 1961 — they had already been on the decline for half a century. Kennedy took off his hat to deliver his actual speech, which also contributed to the notion he didn't wear one. T
he public in 1960 were so removed from hat etiquette that they didn't realize that nobody wore a hat while giving a speech. It wasn't done. Removing your hat was a sign of sincerity.
     Glance at this photo of Abraham Lincoln giving his second inaugural address on March 4, 1865. Use your powers of observation honed above. Notice anything missing? No hat. His famous stovepipe hat is nearby, ready to be worn. When he's done with his speech. 
     I wasn't about to bother trying to inform Kashner of his blunder — East Coast writer types don't acknowledge mistakes, never mind correct them, particularly when pointed out by heartland rustics. 
     Not that I'm in the habit of leaping to correct historical inaccuracies. The continuance of this error frustrates me, particularly, because it speaks to the complete non-influence of my book. It sank without a trace — no shame there, most books do. My use of Kennedy's inauguration day to tell the story of the death of men's hats confused people. The Boston Globe thought I had written the most trivial Kennedy book ever, not grasping that it was a book about hats using Kennedy as a lens. One Amazon reviewer complained there was too much about hats in my hat history, not enough Kennedy.
   I don't think Kennedy actually wearing a hat at his inauguration is a particularly complex, inaccessible historical puzzle, and it's sad to see how easily it flies past folk who otherwise are in the business of parsing reality. It's also comforting that some manage to grasp the situation.
     So kudos to Adam Gopnik, The New Yorker stalwart, who got it right in "The Knotty Death of the Necktie"
     At first I thought he, too, was going to blow it. Gopnik wrote:
     As surely as the famous, supposedly hatless Inauguration of John F. Kennedy was said to have been the end of the hat, and Clark Gable’s bare chest in “It Happened One Night” was said to have been the end of the undershirt, the pandemic has been the end of the necktie.
     Which staggered me a bit. I thought Adam was vaguely familiar with me. We've shared meals together — I once took him to Al's Italian Beef. He asked me to be his interlocutor when he was here 11 years ago at the Chicago Humanities Festival. I was just beginning to pout over someone I respect falling into the usual trap when Gopnik unleashed:
     In “Hatless Jack,” a fine and entertaining book published several years ago, the Chicago newspaperman Neil Steinberg demonstrated that the tale of Kennedy’s killing off the hat was wildly overstated. The hat had been on its way out for a while, and Jack’s hatless Inauguration wasn’t, in any case, actually hatless: he wore a top hat on his way to the ceremony but removed it before making his remarks.
    Well. Okay then. That's better. I don't know whether I like the historical accuracy more, or "fine and entertaining" or "Chicago newspaperman." If you haven't read it, you can pick up a used copy of "Hatless Jack" on Amazon for $7.26. It was my favorite book to write, in that I thoroughly enjoyed exploring this generally-ignored realm, and sharing something that not only hadn't been presented as significant, but people were reluctant to see clearly. I must not have made my case, however, because they still don't get it.      
     This isn't just pickiness, or trivia. As with much history, there is an important truth nestled within the Kennedy and hats story. He was known for being a hatless man — he had a reputation. So when Americans saw him, the dashing, rich, hatless young president, nevertheless wearing a hat at his inauguration, rather than change their assessment to comply with the evidence, they simply edited the hat out of the equation, adjusting collective memory to match their preconceived notions. Perception trumps reality — I didn't chose that verb randomly.




24 comments:

  1. At a fashion show last month, saw a model in a farthingale. Made me think of your wonderful book and how strange fashion trends can be.

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  2. I grew up in the late '40s - early 50s. My dad was a working man .. a carpenter .. and his work clothes were always pressed. And he was fastidious when going to church or to the fine restaurants he loved. Suit, white starched shirt, carefully knotted tie, highly polished Florsheims. A handsome top coat, something else that seems to have faded from use. And a hat. Always a hat. Not fancy, no feather in the band, but always of fine material. The hat was the finishing touch. That's how I remember him.

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  3. This made me smile and laugh.

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  4. Thanks. I love nuggets like that which contradict folklore. I store them, waiting for the conversation when I can say "Well, actally . . ."
    I may be talking thru my hat, but Trump could bring back Presidential headwear with the trendy red ball cap.

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    1. Ball caps in general are the hat comeback. A lot of men wear them.
      All with some kind of logo real tribal designation s***

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  5. In regard to Gable killing off the undershirt, he didn't. I remember well into the 1960s being told to wear one. I refused!
    Undershirts are really useless in hot, humid weather, then you have two layers of sweat soaked shirts. They only work in hot dry climates, which in the US is west of 110 degrees longitude.

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  6. And Trump occasionally says something that's both true and rational. About as often as Kennedy wore a hat, I would think.

    john

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  7. What happened in '64, '68? I'm having a hard time picturing LBJ or Nixon in those silk top hats, though I imagine RN wore one as Ike's veep?

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  8. In terms of headwear, caps seem to be popular now. The ball cap is everywhere, and other more stylish caps can be seen. I think ball caps pre-dated the Orange ones use of them.

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    1. When I left Chicago in the early 90s, ball caps were still for ballgames. But in Cleveland, they soon were all over the place, and they still are...now more than ever. I still have a lot of my old Cub ones, and so many "Tribe" hats (I worked for the team for a couple of years), that I had to give some of that merch away.

      Now that Chief Wahoo is out, and the team is no longer known as the Indians, I don't wear any of that gear anymore. Makes you look like one of THOSE people...the ones who flaunt the Stars and Bars because "it's part of my heritage, man."

      Die-hard Cleveland fans say the very same thing, and wearing an old Wahoo hat just makes you look like an unreconstructed boor. Wahoos are yahoos. Plenty of other ways to play the fool. Like wearing those stupid red ball caps...the ones that actually make you look orange.

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  9. Ahh, it's the Mandela Effect. In the Kennedy case people remove the hat in their memory whereas they add a monocle to the Mr. Monopoly character.
    For reference:
    https://www.cnn.com/2023/09/18/world/mandela-effect-collective-false-memory-scn/index.html

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  10. Very nice column, it displays your desire for historical accuracy, a fastidiousness with details, and your contrarian nature.

    I became a 'nouveau' hat man back in 2009, when I popped one of those cheap straw paper fedoras on my head whilst on vacation in California. Lo and behold, it looked good! I've got a collection of a half a dozen, most of which are quite informal (e.g., cheap), as who has time for fomality in the midst of a fascist coup? I do have one formal Stetson, but I'm not really happy with how it works with the 2 suits I own, and so I rarely wear it.

    I generally favor a similar style of hat; the fedora, with a stingy brim (about 1 1/2 in.), with a crown that starts low and raises slightly. I was lucky enough to find a spectacular brown felt Borsalino (I believe that due to its higher crown, it's more properly called a "Trilby") in a Bloomington IL thrift shop for $55. It's a bit tall for me, but comfy and stylish as hell. Warm, too!

    My favorite out of all of them is a Dobbs fedora, made of polypropylene (I know, GASP!) that I got at a classic haberdashery in Brooklyn back in 2011. The fabric looks for all intents like brown suede, it's starting to get that great, beat-to-shit look and it's served me well for over a decade as my cold weather fedora. They should call it Timex, as it takes a lickin' and keeps on tickin'...in this case, keeping my rapidly-balding noggin warm.

    As far as hat etiquette goes, I'm not quite as draconian as Don Draper was in that Mad Men scene in the elevator, but I've gotten past the hipster notion that it's OK to wear the hat while seated indoors...I generally doff my chapeau at restaurants and social functions indoors, as that's the polite thing to do. Kinda problematic, as even sophisticated establishments have forgotten about things like hat hooks. That's why older drinking establishments are a good environment for us hat fanciers, as they usually have hidden hooks where I can safely stash my headgear. Still looking for a good portable hat hook that I can take to restaurants...but since restos are so damn expensive now, that's less of a problem.

    And finally, this post inspired me to get off my ass (well, metaphorically...I'm sitting on my ass browsing Amazon...) and pick up a couple of your books, as well as Frank Sennett's "Shadow State". Lots of good summer reading ahead!

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  11. Oh, yes, I forgot to mention how I love your use of the verb "to trump".

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  12. Great piece! I love hats, and wish both men and women still wore them. I have a nice collection for all seasons and occasions but will concede that not everyone looks good in them (usually because they have the wrong size or shape hat for their head, in my opinion).

    And I'm sure you remember that on the morning of his assassination, JFK was presented with a Stetson at a breakfast in Fort Worth, but he didn't put it on - in public, anyway. Apparently, the hat is part of the collection at the JFK Presidential Library and Museum in Boston.

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  13. My husband is a hat guy. Boxes and boxes of "caps" and a nice collection of Panamas and more formal hats-I don't know what they are called. He likes to visit hat shops when we travel just for fun. Many have been around for a long long time. One great old one is in NOLA "Meyer the Hatter"-a huge place--they survived the big hurricane and still going I think. Any tips for fun shops in Chicago?

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    1. He MUST go to Optimo Hats in the Monadnock Building. He won't buy any, mind you. The hats cost north of a grand. But it is the prettiest store of any type he's ever seen. I'd recommend the coffee table book — also gorgeous, and more affordable. https://www.everygoddamnday.com/2024/01/hat-in-ring.html

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    2. I have two Optimo hatsmy wife bought them for me when the shop was on Western Avenue in Beverly. One of them is a straw that I love and the other a fedora that I don't wear often but I love owning. Optimo hats are pieces of art, and visiting the store is a treat.

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  14. Also, I did purchase your book (for my hat guy husband) and think I'll take it on vacay next week to share interesting facts about hats with my friends

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  15. "Some people who know me well remember that..."

    Some people who *don't* know you well, but who bought and enjoyed "Hatless Jack" back in the day remember that, too. : )

    Alas, I just don't think I look very good in hats, generally. Though the hats don't have much to to with that, I suppose. The one hat I wear is a classic Tilley hat when I'm going to be out in the sun.

    "adjusting collective memory to match their preconceived notions" There's a lot of that going around.

    And, in for a dime... Gonna have to disagree with Clark St. about undershirts. I find that they go a long way toward keeping the outer shirt dry, whatever the weather. If he hasn't worn one since the '60s, how would he know, anyway? ; )

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    1. As George Will said about never wearing blue jeans, it said more about George than it did the blue jeans or something to that effect to paraphrase our esteemed host

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  16. my contribution to this forum is rooted in your passage introducing adam gopnik-and it is to congratulate you for taking him to al's beef. i am so tired of these hollywood types fawning over that 3rd rate imitation mr. beef. it started with that lantern jawed knucklehead jay leno and is now embraced by the entire crew of the otherwise completely acceptable tv show 'the bear.' mr'. beef couldn't carry the hat of that glorious emporium of greatness on west taylor street. an al's original #1 soaked in gravy and packed with hot and sweet is nirvana itself and you have once again shown exquisite taste.
    mr. beef indeed! HARUMPH! i say

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    1. HARRUMPH to you, pgw! NOTHING beats Mr. Beef, and I don't need Jay Friggin Leno to tell me that it's the best beef stand I've ever eaten at. You can keep Al's, with it's nutmeg scented pepper relish. How can a place located directly across the street (or WAS, I should say) from the Scala's plant be anything BUT good?!

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  17. My brother was in the US Army and returned to the job he had at Arthur Andersen. He was aware they had a hat requirement (60s still)- in fact employees had to have two. He bought two new hats upon his return from service and was VERY ANGRY when he discovered AA eliminated the requirement in his absence. Tom was abstemious about money so it was painful to see his reaction.

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  18. I wish women's hat wear trends would also retreat. As a short person who has often been seated behind a big hat, I assure you the view is over-rated.

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