Saturday, September 13, 2025

Giorgio Armani and me


 

     I was never a Giorgio Armani kind of guy. First off, I wasn't rich. Second, I wasn't thin — a chunky endomorph in an Armani suit was a contradiction in terms.
     Third I had no taste. I liked corduroy. I wore beige khaki pants and baggy blue Oxford shirts with solid knit neckties loosened to sternum-level. On fancy occasions, I tightened the knot.
     Armani might have been my polar opposite. He defined the greed-is-good 1980s —  unstructured suit jackets of lush fabrics over elegant t-shirts. Money was almost meaningless to me — I cashed my paycheck and keep the currency in a fishbowl on my dresser, digging my hand in and taking some when I was low. Money bought stuff; it wasn't the barometer of my personal worth. That was what writing was for.
     That doesn't mean I didn't benefit from Armani. I did. He enriched my life in a way I hadn't thought about lately until the designer died in Milan Sept. 4, age 91.
     Once, in the late 1980s, I was grinding through my career as a night-shift nobody on the City Desk of the Chicago Sun-Times. I forget what got stuck in my craw — no doubt some passing spat with a long gone editor, stepping on my neck. They all were, in my estimation. "Not having a column," I used to say. "Is like being drowned."
      Not in hazy, abstract way, I'd continue, if anyone were listening. But like someone holding my head underwater and killing me.
   So I went to Marshall Field's — I did that a lot in those days, going to Field's State Street store to waste time, cool down, usually by walking through their furniture department, looking at the gorgeous Chippendale breakfronts and deep leather chairs. Going to Marshal Field's was free, and anonymous, and restorative. Somebody was buying this shit. Somebody was enjoying life. Maybe I would too, someday.
     I don't think I was alone — I recall my friend Cate being somehow involved, a memory she confirms, along its vague parameters.
     We went to the men's section, where I bought this Armani tie. Deep red. With this little yellow and black arrows. I think it cost $70, almost 40 years ago. A fabulous sum, no doubt smoothed by Cate's presence, goading me on: of course I must have that tie. I deserve it. She probably picked it out for me, or at least endorsed my selection.
     Need it I did, and every time I put it on, some of the cachet and power and mystery of Armani was transferred to me, by osmosis. I made its tiny little knot so many times that eventually the red silk wore away and the white lining showed through — not something that happens often with neckties, so either I wore it an awful lot, or it wasn't as high quality as it pretended to be.
     Even unwearable — even if it wasn't worn through, the knot was the size of a cherry, and as out-of-date as spats — I kept the tie. As a talisman. I liked seeing it, hanging there, deep red with that little arrow motif. I had class, to paraphrase Terry Malloy, I was a contender. I was somebody.
     That's a lot to get from a single necktie. Thanks for the assist, Cate. And thanks for the tie, Giorgio. Rest in peace.

8 comments:

  1. Although once tall and slender in my youth I was never much of a fashionista. More a blue jeans and t-shirt guy.

    One day my grandmother mentioned that her neighbor had died and that his widow was trying to give away some beautiful clothes that he owned.
    I went by and he had some suits I don't think I even owned one one of them was an Armani a perfect fit like it had been tailored just for me it was turquoise and I wondered when would I ever wear this

    A few years later I was managing a nightclub at 22nd and Michigan the grand opening and my wife suggested that I try on those suits and see if they still fit and she suggested that I wear the turquoise
    I was leaning towards the sharkskin but I went with her suggestion and it was quite a hit.
    Fairly certain that was the only time I ever wore it wish there was a picture

    ReplyDelete
  2. I don't know if you have ever noticed the interfacing of a tie but as an old dry cleaner there are stripes on the inside indicating the weight, containing wool, and the manufacturer of the interfacing. Heavier interfacings were paired with lighter weight silks, polyester, etc., to help the tie hold it's shape and shed wrinkles.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Fields was the place to waste time back then! That day, or a different one in that period, I remember we were in Field's doing exactly that and gossiping about somebody we knew, and they turned out to be on the escalator behind us. One of those moments where you didn't know for a while if somebody heard you gossiping about them. The stab of fear stays with me. As does the tie. Nothing to regret there! How many things can you say that about?

    ReplyDelete
  4. When writing, does one need to credit AI, such as these Armani quotes tied to today’s column in Emporio Steinberg? Maybe, for simplicity, you could have just said “Clothes make the man.”

    A well-known Armani quote is, "Elegance is not about being noticed, it's about being remembered". Other notable quotes from Giorgio Armani include his emphasis on detail in creation, "To create something exceptional, your mindset must be relentlessly focused on the smallest detail", and his view on clothing as a tool for confidence: "I believe that my clothes can give people a better image of themselves – that it can increase their feelings of confidence and happiness".

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. All hail Armani and his multi-billion empire achieved by softening the look of power suits. By paying low wages to the people who create the fabric and notions, actually assemble and sew your designs into wearable clothes, and dumping tons of elegance in 3rd world deserts and open landfills polluting the world. But damn, the rich look understatedly chic!

      Delete
  5. Unfortunately, since the "greed is good 1980s" things have gotten much worse. Back then a billionaire was a big deal; a rarity. We will soon enter the age of the trillionaire.



    I'll never forget the "cringe" moment I felt, a decade ago, during my eldest daughter's freshman orientation, at a small midwestern Catholic college. The dean, a great guy by the way, asked for a show of hands of all the parents who wanted their kids to earn over $100,000 a year. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but I feel education has a higher purpose than that, so I didn't raise my hand. And every single other parent did.

    Several years after graduation, my daughter surprised us by applying to medical school, and now she is beginning her third year. She is not motivated by the paycheck, she just wants to help people.












    ReplyDelete
  6. “Cachet” not “cache,” ne c’est pas?

    ReplyDelete

Comments are vetted and posted at the discretion of the proprietor. Comments that are not submitted under a name of some sort run the risk of being deleted without being read.