Saturday, September 13, 2025

Giorgio Armani and me


 

     I was never a Giorgio Armani kind of guy. First off, I wasn't rich. Second, I wasn't thin — a chunky endomorph in an Armani suit was a contradiction in terms.
     Third I had no taste. I liked corduroy. I wore beige khaki pants and baggy blue Oxford shirts with solid knit neckties loosened to sternum-level. On fancy occasions, I tightened the knot.
     Armani might have been my polar opposite. He defined the greed-is-good 1980s —  unstructured suit jackets of lush fabrics over elegant t-shirts. Money was almost meaningless to me — I cashed my paycheck and keep the currency in a fishbowl on my dresser, digging my hand in and taking some when I was low. Money bought stuff; it wasn't the barometer of my personal worth. That was what writing was for.
     That doesn't mean I didn't benefit from Armani. I did. He enriched my life in a way I hadn't thought about lately until the designer died in Milan Sept. 4, age 91.
     Once, in the late 1980s, I was grinding through my career as a night-shift nobody on the City Desk of the Chicago Sun-Times. I forget what got stuck in my craw — no doubt some passing spat with a long gone editor, stepping on my neck. They all were, in my estimation. "Not having a column," I used to say. "Is like being drowned."
      Not in hazy, abstract way, I'd continue, if anyone were listening. But like someone holding my head underwater and killing me.
   So I went to Marshall Field's — I did that a lot in those days, going to Field's State Street store to waste time, cool down, usually by walking through their furniture department, looking at the gorgeous Chippendale breakfronts and deep leather chairs. Going to Marshal Field's was free, and anonymous, and restorative. Somebody was buying this shit. Somebody was enjoying life. Maybe I would too, someday.
     I don't think I was alone — I recall my friend Cate being somehow involved, a memory she confirms, along its vague parameters.
     We went to the men's section, where I bought this Armani tie. Deep red. With this little yellow and black arrows. I think it cost $70, almost 40 years ago. A fabulous sum, no doubt smoothed by Cate's presence, goading me on: of course I must have that tie. I deserve it. She probably picked it out for me, or at least endorsed my selection.
     Need it I did, and every time I put it on, some of the cachet and power and mystery of Armani was transferred to me, by osmosis. I made its tiny little knot so many times that eventually the red silk wore away and the white lining showed through — not something that happens often with neckties, so either I wore it an awful lot, or it wasn't as high quality as it pretended to be.
     Even unwearable — even if it wasn't worn through, the knot was the size of a cherry, and as out-of-date as spats — I kept the tie. As a talisman. I liked seeing it, hanging there, deep red with that little arrow motif. I had class, to paraphrase Terry Malloy, I was a contender. I was somebody.
     That's a lot to get from a single necktie. Thanks for the assist, Cate. And thanks for the tie, Giorgio. Rest in peace.

10 comments:

  1. Although once tall and slender in my youth I was never much of a fashionista. More a blue jeans and t-shirt guy.

    One day my grandmother mentioned that her neighbor had died and that his widow was trying to give away some beautiful clothes that he owned.
    I went by and he had some suits I don't think I even owned one one of them was an Armani a perfect fit like it had been tailored just for me it was turquoise and I wondered when would I ever wear this

    A few years later I was managing a nightclub at 22nd and Michigan the grand opening and my wife suggested that I try on those suits and see if they still fit and she suggested that I wear the turquoise
    I was leaning towards the sharkskin but I went with her suggestion and it was quite a hit.
    Fairly certain that was the only time I ever wore it wish there was a picture

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  2. I don't know if you have ever noticed the interfacing of a tie but as an old dry cleaner there are stripes on the inside indicating the weight, containing wool, and the manufacturer of the interfacing. Heavier interfacings were paired with lighter weight silks, polyester, etc., to help the tie hold it's shape and shed wrinkles.

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  3. Fields was the place to waste time back then! That day, or a different one in that period, I remember we were in Field's doing exactly that and gossiping about somebody we knew, and they turned out to be on the escalator behind us. One of those moments where you didn't know for a while if somebody heard you gossiping about them. The stab of fear stays with me. As does the tie. Nothing to regret there! How many things can you say that about?

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  4. When writing, does one need to credit AI, such as these Armani quotes tied to today’s column in Emporio Steinberg? Maybe, for simplicity, you could have just said “Clothes make the man.”

    A well-known Armani quote is, "Elegance is not about being noticed, it's about being remembered". Other notable quotes from Giorgio Armani include his emphasis on detail in creation, "To create something exceptional, your mindset must be relentlessly focused on the smallest detail", and his view on clothing as a tool for confidence: "I believe that my clothes can give people a better image of themselves – that it can increase their feelings of confidence and happiness".

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    1. All hail Armani and his multi-billion empire achieved by softening the look of power suits. By paying low wages to the people who create the fabric and notions, actually assemble and sew your designs into wearable clothes, and dumping tons of elegance in 3rd world deserts and open landfills polluting the world. But damn, the rich look understatedly chic!

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  5. Unfortunately, since the "greed is good 1980s" things have gotten much worse. Back then a billionaire was a big deal; a rarity. We will soon enter the age of the trillionaire.



    I'll never forget the "cringe" moment I felt, a decade ago, during my eldest daughter's freshman orientation, at a small midwestern Catholic college. The dean, a great guy by the way, asked for a show of hands of all the parents who wanted their kids to earn over $100,000 a year. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but I feel education has a higher purpose than that, so I didn't raise my hand. And every single other parent did.

    Several years after graduation, my daughter surprised us by applying to medical school, and now she is beginning her third year. She is not motivated by the paycheck, she just wants to help people.












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  6. “Cachet” not “cache,” ne c’est pas?

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  7. Oh what the heck. Your Armani tie tale started me thinking. In the mid 1980s I actually had a fairly impressive career going. Where I wore a nice suit every day, by gosh. Senior management expected EVERYONE to dress for business--NOT business casual. Except for the guys in the art department because they were..."creative." No need for them to dress up. Anyway, I had a daily ritual. I'd toss a tie into the back seat of my 1981 Rabbit every morning and putter to he office. Then slap my tie on at the last minute before the boss arrived. But one day...I forgot my tie!!!!!! What to do? This would mean a major black mark. No tie? Are you crazy?! I imagined him sending me home. Then I had an inspiration. A light bulb moment! Back then there was a very cool independent thrift store near the corner of Halsted and Oakdale. On the east side of Halsted. I left a note for the secretary saying I had an "early meeting" across campus. I slipped down the alley that came out by the old Gaslight bar. Nipped across the street when the store opened and found a beautiful Brooks Brothers tie. Mild paisley design, barely worn. How much in 1986? Three bucks! I received many compliments regarding that tie. I wore it for years. Great tie. And nobody was the wiser! Especially not the boss. We're still in touch. He turns 89 in a few days. I could ask him if he would have shouted at me in 1986 for not having my tie. I better not.

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  8. I went through a phase in the 1990s, shortly after our office relocated from casual/trendy River North to Wacker Drive downtown, where I decided to up my game sartorially and wear a dress shirt and tie around the office, even when, as a tech company, we were mostly casual T-shirts and jeans. Dress for the job you want, they say, not the job you have.

    I have to say that I did notice a subtle difference in how people interact with you when you're wearing something a little more formal than them. I liked wearing nice (not necessarily expensive) shirts, and especially seeing how a style of tie would work with different shirts... strong patterns against solid colors, bright ones against subtle shades, infinite possibilities. I enjoyed wearing the occasional cheap or tacky tie with a shirt that actually made it look good. My collection of ties expanded rapidly, and I still have them all.

    Everyone has one suit, the one they wore to their job interview, plus the black tie they paired with it when Uncle Bob died, but back in the day I was traveling on trips where a suit was expected when visiting the client, so I actually had about three different nice ones, all purchased from Marshall Field's and stored in their official Field's garment bags. Double-breasted suits were popular power suits back then, and I remember one particular evening where for some reason I was wearing one while shopping (again) at Marshall Field's. There was a big crowd of shoppers in casual dress, plus me in my suit, and to this day I can remember how easy it was to get the clerk's attention, even though the crowd was five rows deep and I was in Row Four. It could not have been me. It had to be the suit.

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