Saturday, May 23, 2026

Works in progress: Jack Clark in Paris, deux


The Louvre, Paris

     As a certified museum guy, I have to admit that frequent contributor Jack Clark's pride at never visiting the Louvre left me a little ... baffled. It's like not liking chocolate — possible, yes, but not exactly something to be proud of. I'll let you decide if he makes his case. As for the painting that he highlights, I deliberately tucked it into the body of the story, and not the top, so it wouldn't go up to illustrate the post on Facebook, causing the behemoth to perhaps flag and block it as a species of pornography, which is just sad.
     Jack does sidestep the obvious question of what is happening in the painting. According to Wikipedia, the nipple tweak was seen as somehow symbolic of the lady on the right being pregnant with Henry IV's child. In more recent times, it was seen as a wink at lesbianism, though the two subjects are sisters. The sort of puzzle one misses by not frequenting museums.

     Three of my siblings visited us in Paris the other week. We took my brother Kevin and his wife Joanne to hear some music in a club housed in a boat docked on the left bank of the Seine. Kevin’s the real musician in the family. I wasn’t a bit surprised when he ended up on stage singing and playing a borrowed bass guitar.
     My sisters Kathleen and Ryan went to every museum they could find, without me. I didn’t have any problems in that boat on the river but just listening to them talk about the various museums they’d visited made me feel somewhat seasick.
     Being colorblind is a blessing that I’ve used to keep myself out of scores of museums. It’s about more than my abbreviated color perception. I like my art one piece at a time. Museums stuffed full make me dizzy. Once I almost saw blood.
     That was on a visit to the Buffalo Bill Wild West Museum in Cody, Wyoming, back in the late 1980s. I’d always heard it was a great place and I’m a big fan of the old West as portrayed in books and movies. But sad to say, the museum was just as boring as most of the others I’ve tried.
     They had a bunch of Indian mannequins dressed in authentic Indian wear standing around Teepees and looking very. . . Well, actually I forget how they looked. That’s how unimpressive it was. But the woman I was with was having a great time. She’d once worked at the Art Institute so this was right up her avenue. I followed along trying to pretend I was interested and then I wondered where the museum had gotten the clothes. “Probably off of dead Indians,” I answered myself.
      Once I had the thought, I found what looked like bullet holes everywhere, in the back, in the shoulder, in the side. And suddenly, in the midst of horror, I was having a great time. “Look at this one,” I said to my friend. “I mean, moths don’t eat through leather, do they?”
      “Look, right there in the lower back. Isn’t that where the kidneys are?”
     “Jack, would you please shut up?” my friend whispered. “Everybody’s listening.”
     Shut up? She had to be kidding. Here was some actual history. Those Indian villages were a fantasy: the Indians living in peace. When did that ever happen? Not after 1492.
     Some years later, I was driving a taxi and my passenger said he was a history professor at Yale. “What’s your specialty?” I asked. When he told me it was the American West, I asked if he’d ever been to the museum in Cody.
     “Oh sure. I go every other year or so.”
     I told him about those holes and he promised to take a look on his next visit. Who knows? Maybe my observation made it into a Yale class or paper.
     But where did they get the clothes? Who did they belong to? How did they die? Who was on the other end of those bullets? I wouldn’t mind hearing those answers.
     In any museum, I would probably find the answer to, How did they get all this stuff, more interesting than the stuff itself. And remember, most museums have even more stuff in storage.
     Speaking of museums and Paris, I did go to the Louvre once, but I only got as far as the gift shop. This was decades back, I was on my way to Paris to write with my friend Bob Meyer. He was a Chicago artist, writer, and all-around craftsman and artisan, who had moved to Paris to be with his young son. We were turning the 1931 Fritz Lang movie M into the play M the Murderer.
      Bob Horn, another Chicago artist, wanted me to ask Bob to go to the Louvre gift shop and pick up a postcard of the painting, Gabrielle d'EstrĂ©es and One of Her Sisters. In the 1594 work, two women in their early 20s are sitting in a bathtub. An older woman is in the background, looking down at her knitting. The girl on the left is reaching out, tweaking one of the other girl’s nipples. Horn was planning a painting based on the original. “Bob will know the painting,” he said.
     (You may notice a trend in those last few paragraphs: We’ve all run out of original ideas.)
     When I got to Paris, Bob Meyer said, “I’ve been here for eight years and I haven’t been in the Louvre yet. I’m not going for Bob Horn.” They were the best of friends, of course, and both were involved with the founding of the NAB Gallery in Chicago in 1974.
     But Bob gave me directions to the Louvre. And then on my legal pad he drew a rough sketch of the postcard Bob Horn wanted. “Just show ‘em that,” he said. “They’ll know the painting.”
     I wasn’t so sure. Bob could make the simplest drawing look sexy and on the border of obscene. But I didn’t see anything like that in the sketch. I folded it and headed for the Louvre.
     On the way, I passed rue Rivoli where there were several postcard stores. I went into one after the other and showed them the sketch. “The Louvre,” everyone said, and some were kind enough to point the way.
     So I went to the Louvre and down to the gift shop where there are thousands and thousands of postcards. How would I ever find the right one? There were two teenage girls behind the counter. I held up my drawing and they both immediately turned bright red. Bob had done it again. Here they were, working in a museum with thousands of nudes. They probably never gave any of them a second glance. But my old friend Bob, with a five-second drawing scribbled on a yellow legal pad, had somehow ignited a flash fire.
     After the girls recovered, they knew exactly in which aisle I would find the postcard. I bought a few extras.
     Aside from transposing the sisters, Bob had drawn the scene perfectly from memory. I guess that’s what you learn in art school. I don’t know where he’d learned to hint at pornography without ever crossing into it.
     I looked at Bob’s sketch for days, but I could never find what had made the two girls blush and Bob, who died in Paris in 2021, wasn’t giving away trade secrets. I’ve got several of his drawings at home. When I look, I rarely see those hidden elements. I think they come with the shock of first viewing. Almost every woman who’s set foot in my apartment has skipped past most of my other art to take long looks at Bob’s drawings. I wish I knew what they were seeing.
     Maybe if I’d spent more time in museums.

15 comments:

  1. Baffled is an understatement. No, Jack does not make his case.

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  2. Jack's writings are always interesting. I wish Bob's drawing of this painting had been included with this story. I would have loved to compare the two and see for myself whether I agreed with what all the other women saw. Judy

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  3. I'm good for 90 minutes in a museum, about the same time I can give a movie or a play before I start squirming. Longer than that and I get sensory overload. But avoiding museums altogether? That's a foolish script to follow..

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    1. I have a similar limit with the exception of taking my grandkids to Chicago's museums ( I sit down whenever possible) and the National Portrait Gallery in London, catnip to this Anglophile.

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  4. As a Philistine my interest and understanding of actual art is minimal to say the least. I have enjoyed other types of museums and also occasionally wondered where certain things had come from. Though a couple times when I asked a docent I usually got a reasonable answer. Right or not I didn’t know.

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  5. Unless there's a special exhibit (Beatles, Stones, Grateful Dead, Woodstock, Summer of Love), would not recommend a visit to Cleveland's Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum. It draws crowds, but too many folks leave feeling shortchanged and disappointed. Maybe it will improve. After thirty years, a long-overdue expansion is currently underway.

    We live twenty minutes from the Rock Hall, as it's called here. Go there maybe every three or four years. Even though it's free, because we're county residents.

    Too many of the inductees don't really merit inclusion, mainly because the RRHOF mistakenly believes that somebody has to be honored every single year. Which means that they scrape the bottom of the barrel and even induct non-rockers.

    They could learn a lot from that other Hall of Fame...the one in Cooperstown, NY.

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    1. I'm with you, Grizz. I found the RRHF very tomblike, went once and would never go back.

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    2. That I.M. Pei pyramid may have looked cool, but the interior is dark and gloomy and might have made a good resting place for a Pharaoh and his mummy. There were empty department stores available on Public Square, with rapid transit access. They became apartments, a hotel, and a casino. Cleveland has always done everything bass-ackwards.

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    3. The Cleveland Museum of Art, on the other hand, is full of delights.

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    4. CMA is internationally renowned for its substantial holdings of Asian and Egyptian art, and houses a diverse permanent collection of more than 61,000 works of art from around the world.

      With an endowment of nearly a billion dollars, CMA is the fourth-wealthiest art museum in the country. Which means it's still free. How much does Chicago's Art institute cost now?

      CMA is one of the most visited art museums in the world. Years ago, a friend of mine took an Amtrak train from Chicago, just to visit it. In the dead of winter. And since the Cleveland Orchestra performs right across the street, she went to a concert, too. Came home shaking her head in amazement.

      Little did I know that in just a few more years, I'd be living a half-hour away from both. About to begin my 35th year in this town.

      Despite the miserable winters and springs, it's an affordable, decent place to live. You eventually get used to the long periods of sunlessness and chill. Thank you, Lake Erie.

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  6. I love to go to museums just as I love to read I saw a meme of some sort yesterday that said being able to read but not doing it is worse than not being able to read.
    Just as I can't imagine not reading I can't imagine not going to a museum whenever the chance presents itself I've even made an extra effort to go to some museums they were my destination.

    Oftentimes I don't see a lot I go sit down and stay there and let my friends wander around and when they come back they say are you still looking at that painting.
    I guess I too am trying to avoid the sensory overload.

    This is why sometimes I don't read a book for a month or two because I read so much I can't remember any of it or sorted out in any kind of meaningful way I need to kind of reset my brain.

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  7. Jack Clark has a new book of short stories -- just out, this week. "Eddie Miles Drives Again". I just ordered from Amazon.
    A couple of weeks ago, I read his novel "Nobody's Angel". Great and gritty!

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    1. Tony, thanks for the plug. I'm really happy with the new book, and I love the cover by my friend Scott Baker. Here's the promo for the book: From a cab driver in mourning to a ghost who offers sex tips, from teenagers in lust to a novice private-eye, to a down-and-out homeless guy, these 10 stories, set against the backdrop of Chicago, a city Jack Clark knows so well, are sometimes dark, often funny, and always intriguing.
      In truth, it should probably read: a city that Jack used to know so well. Once I stopped driving a cab, my city got much smaller.
      Thanks for reading.

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    2. In "Nobody's Angel" you wrote about so many familiar streets and neighborhoods. Several times, you mentioned driving LSD to Hollywood to Ridge. I had a friend who lived at the intersection of Hollywood and Ridge. I made that drive hundreds of times. I kept thinking, "Shit, he's going to Bill's place!"

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  8. Lucky to have studied life drawing with Bob Horn. Wonderful teacher, a rare bird who would let you figure out your errors with subtle suggestions and without commandeering it by drawing all over your drawing. Also a perfect gentleman.

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