Saturday, June 13, 2026

Like the Obama Presidential Center, Jackson Park was born over the furious objections of Chicagoans

Frederick Law Olmsted assumed Chicagoans making the journey to Jackson Park would
come by boat, so the Midway Plaisance was originally intended to be a canal.

   
     I've been blessed over the years to have access to one of the finest private research facilities in the world, the Newberry Library, which kindly permits me to be a scholar-in-residence. Using their resources really enhanced the following story — I probably would have never known about Frederick Law Olmsted's report on the future Jackson Park had I not bumped into an original copy waiting for me in the Newberry collection.

     The Obama Presidential Center had to overcome many hurdles before coming into existence, including continual protest and two federal lawsuits. The same is true for the parkland the center rests upon, which from the start sparked debate and litigation. Even the park’s name was once subject to “universal” outcry.
     When formed in 1869, the Chicago South Park Commission faced seemingly insurmountable obstacles. First, it had no money — its authority to raise taxes ended up in front of the Illinois Supreme Court. Second, it had no land: The property it wanted was in the hands of people who demanded "exorbitant prices" or passionately refused to sell. Third, its legal right to exist was questioned.    
     Or, as the Chicago Times wrote, reporting on the commission's first annual meeting in 1870:  
     "Many persons owning property within the park and others on general principles and for various reasons manifested strong opposition to every measure tending to produce this result and proclaimed that, as advised by 'counsel learned in the law,' the South Park Act was 
unconstitutional and void."
     But a bond of $1,642,000 was floated, with $918.87 for office furniture and $1,500 to Olmsted, Vaux & Co. to assess the suitability of the area around Drexel and Kankakee avenues as a future park for a city whose population had nearly tripled in the previous decade.
     The landscape firm was headed by Frederick Law Olmsted, famous for turning the ruins of "pig-sties, slaughter-houses, and bone-boiling works" into New York's Central Park and more recently carving 1,600 acres of Cook County farmland along the Des Plaines River into the nation's first planned suburb, aptly named Riverside.     
     In his 1871 "Report Accompanying Plan for Laying Out the South Park," Olmsted wistfully invoked "the great roaming grounds" of London and Paris before delivering the bad news about the barbell-shaped, 1,000-acre property that Chicago wanted to render into parkland. 
     "Your territory lies at the distance of six miles from the center of business of Chicago and quite beyond its corporate limits," he wrote — indeed, Hyde Park would not join Chicago until 1889. "Its neighborhood is mostly uncultivated country, much of it unenclosed and sparsely inhabited."
     The city could double and double again, Olmsted wrote, and yet the park "will not be much used by the citizens of Chicago."
     Here he was mistaken. While Jackson Park would never become the central civic feature that downtown's Grant Park would be, it would serve the recreational needs of the city's vibrant South Side, include including two popular beaches, and bask in international attention as host of the 1893 World's Columbian Exposition. It would leave , leaving a legacy of one cultural landmark, the Griffin Museum of Science and Industry, and another frequently overlooked gem, La Rabida Hospital — , and leading eventually, despite furious efforts to thwart it, to the Obama Presidential Center.

Olmsted's task, and his obstacles

     Back in 1871, though, Olmsted bemoaned the land he was given to work with.
     "The first obvious defect of the site is that of its flatness," he wrote. What is needed is "a mountain glen with a dashing stream and cascades."
     That being impossible, Olmsted's view fell upon an undeniable "highly picturesque" feature already right there: Lake Michigan.
     "There is but one object of scenery near Chicago of special grandeur or sublimity and that, the Lake, can be made, by artificial means, no more grand or sublime."
     Olmsted envisioned a series of lagoons connected by a mile-long canal, the Midway Plaisance — an old French word for "pleasantness" — the assumption being that most Chicagoans making the journey would go by boat. The first L tracks wouldn't be laid until 1892.
     Fate had other ideas, namely the Great Chicago Fire of October 1871 that destroyed the South Side Park Commission office — along with most of Olmsted's plans.

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11 comments:

  1. Douglass Park, originally named for an Illinois senator and plantation owner (Stephen A Douglas), was renamed for an abolitionist and social reformer (Frederick Douglass) with the simple addition of a second "S" to the park's name. Nothing at all needs to be added in order to rename Jackson Park after the late Jesse Jackson. But there would undoubtedly be a huge stink and hoo-ha over the change. Hey...it's Chicago.

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  2. Thank you for this.

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  3. Painting a historical view of.where we came from. Thanks

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  4. Please stop appending that billionaire shmuck's name to the Museum of Science & Industry.
    He gave the museum a lot of money & wanted his name on it as a fuck you to the city & state which didn't fall for his spending even more millions to elect a bunch of right wing clowns to government here in Illinois & then went & moved his company to Miami, just like the spoiled rich kid who loses & takes his ball home so the others can't play.
    Thus proving he's just a big crybaby & snowflake!
    Julius Rosenwald was the creator & main funder of the place & he never wanted his name on it, so no one's name should ever be on it!

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    1. No. As I sometimes point out to readers, I don't set style at the paper, I follow it. It's the Willis Tower. It's the Griffin Museum of Science and Industry. I know the history, and mentioned before that Jews sometimes called the museum "The Rosenwald" whether the Sears executive wanted them to or not. If we are allowed to name things in accordance to our wishes, then I would live in Neilville.

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    2. Then the ST needs to change its style book!

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    3. My Jewish mother called it "The Rosenwald Museum" all her life.
      Right up until she died at the age of 92, in 2012.

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  5. Thanks for the mention of Theodore Dreiser's visit. He describes this in great detail in "Dawn," part one of his autobiography about growing up in Indiana and Chicago. As I recall, he found chaperoning a group of young women teachers at the world's fair to be quite a challenge. The second volume, "Newspaper Days," is a great look at newspapering and life in American cities in the late-1800s. If you like Dreiser (not everyone does) you'll like these two volumes.

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  6. Fascinating and very timely subject. Thank you.

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  7. I was one of the furious objectors to the location site of the Obama Presidential Center. Although a call for proposals went out, everyone knew the University of Chicago proposal would be the favored one, based on affiliation and location. Few outsiders expected U of C to have the audacity to build their entire proposal on land that wasn't in their control, or theirs to offer, however. They had space/real estate on the campus to work with, just as University of Illinois at Chicago and the other bidders did. But they were so confident their bid would be chosen they used the opportunity for a land grab. Proposals are not done that way.
    I hope to visit the Obama Presidential Center soon, and expect there will be a lot there for me to love. But I doubt the visit will change my opinion of U of C or Valerie Jarrett now or in the future. Good will can return, but probably not the respect I once had for them.

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    1. This is a nuanced and well-stated comment, Jill, which I certainly think is appropriate to add here amidst all the hoopla with regard to the opening. Sure, the ship has sailed, and, by most accounts, the not-particularly-noteworthy section of Jackson Park where the Center sits has been greatly improved. Lavishing millions of dollars on almost any site will tend to do that.

      But there are acres and acres of land not that far from the chosen location which would have been much *more* improved, had my favorite president / former community organizer not decided that putting his monolithic building in the park was the most appealing idea.

      Anyway, though I'm 2 days late, I just wanted to commend you for your thoughtful post.

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